Argentina

MDA - Argentina's Mountainsconcagua

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Satellite

::::: Name :::::

Aconcagua. It is discuss whether it comes from Araucanian or Mapuche Aconca-Hue or Cahuak Ackon Quechua. The latter name means "Stone Sentinel."

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Argentina

::::: Place :::::

Province of Mendoza (Andes).

   

Compass

::::: Zone :::::

Midwest: 69 º 59 'west longitude and 32 º 39' South Latitude.

Way Points Aconcagua

Way Points - Ruta Normal - Cara Norte (ver +)
Dátum usado WGS 84
Lugar
Latitud
Longitud
Altitud
Puente del Inca 32º 49' 28.2'' S 69º 54' 41.4'' W 2750 m.s.n.m.
Guardaparques 32º 48' 39.6'' S 69º 56' 32.4'' W 2980 m.s.n.m.
Laguna Horcones 32º 48' 21.6'' S 69º 56' 36'' W 3010 m.s.n.m.
Confluencia 32º 45' 33.6'' S 69º 58' 17.4'' W 3350 m.s.n.m.
Campamento Plaza Mulas 32º 38' 55.2'' S 70º 03' 27'' W 4400 m.s.n.m.
El Semáforo 32º 38' 51'' S 70º 03' 12.6'' W 4580 m.s.n.m.
Plaza California 32º 38' 45.6'' S 70º 02' 49.2'' W 4870 m.s.n.m.
Plaza Canadá 32º 38' 42.6'' S 70º 02' 37.2'' W 5080 m.s.n.m.
Nido de Cóndores 32º 38' 14.4'' S 70º 01' 48.6'' W 5590 m.s.n.m.
Refugio Berlín 32º 38' 19.2'' S 70º 01' 18'' W 5970 m.s.n.m.
Piedras Blancas inferior 32º 38' 15'' S 70º 01' 06.6'' W 6000 m.s.n.m.
Piedras Blancas 32º 38' 25.2'' S 70º 01' 07.2'' W 6100 m.s.n.m.
Piedras Negras 32º 38' 29.4'' S 70º 00' 57.6'' W 6210 m.s.n.m.
Enganche travesía Falso Polaco 32º 38' 37.2'' S 70º 00' 53.4'' W 6280 m.s.n.m.
Refugio Independencia 32º 38' 46.2'' S 70º 00' 55.8'' W 6400 m.s.n.m.
El Dedo 32º 38' 55.2'' S 70º 00' 57'' W 6490 m.s.n.m.
Fin de la canaleta 32º 39' 16.2'' S 70º 00' 51.6'' W 6830 m.s.n.m.
Cumbre 32º 39' 11.4'' S 70º 00' 43.2'' W 6962 m.s.n.m.
Aconcagua via Polish Glacier Traverse / Vacas valley (ver +)
Submitted by: Rob Milne Scottish Mountaineering
Jan-02/04
Harry Kikstra
Jan-00/04
Grid: Lat/Lon hddd°mm.mmm'    
Datum: WGS 84    
Aconcagua via Polish Glacier Traverse/Vacas valley
Name Position Altitude (From the GPS, not accurate)
Puerta del Incas S32 49.478 W69 54.572
8928 ft
Vacas Trailhead S32 51.042 W69 45.653
7794 ft
Water  S32 45.582 W69 48.320
9298ft
Water  S32 45.388 W69 48.441
9357 ft
Las Lenas (newer site) S32 45.119 W69 48.454
Bridge S32 44.677 W69 48.540
9514 ft
1st view of Aconcagua  S32.38.234 W69 50.295
Old Case Piedre camp S32 38.088 W69 50.291
Cross River S32 38.013 W69 50.437
10702 ft
Water S32 38.145 W69 51.709
11079 ft
Big Hill S32 38.213 W69 51.863
11190 ft
Cross River 2 S32 38.329 W69 52.322
11661 ft
Plaza Argentina Base Camp  S32 38.749 W69 56.683
Camp 1 S32.38.300 W69 58.676
16,020 ft
Col Camp  S32 38.297 W69 59.551
Camp 2 (we were crossing the glacier to the normal route, so this is a camp location on a moraine on the glacier, about 150 yards west of the standard camp located among the cliffs to the east of the glacier). S32 38.493 W 69 59.904
19,000 ft
High Camp, this is the junction of the Falso de los Polacos and the Ruta Normal trails. S32 38.637 W 70 00.890
20,300 ft.
Independencia S32 38.712 W70 00.962
13319 ft
Aconcagua Summit (Rob reading) S32 39.188 W70 00.719
22612 ft

WP MDA for GARMIN:

Aconcagua - Normal Route - rrivadeneira.gdb

   

Altimeter

::::: Altitude :::::

6.962 m.s.n.m. (22,834 ft) In May, 2001, a group of scientits of the expeditionary team italoargentino of the geologist Giorgio Poretti determined by means of modern teams of global position (GPS) and of terrestrial topography that the precise altitude of the Aconcagua had to be corrigida in two meters over the established value of 6959,75 meters till then from 1956.

His measurement estimated the height in 6961,83 meters on the level of the sea.

One was provided with the most precise terrestrial instruments of the moment (tachymeters Leica T2002/DI3000) and the most advanced systems of geodesy GPS (Leica GPS530). This measurement confirmed the estimations realized by satellite in 1989, which were determining an altitude of 1962/-5 m.

It is *1 of America, the highest peak of Argentina and of the world out of Asia.

   

Calendar

::::: Calendar :::::

December to March.

   

Temperature

::::: Temperature :::::

Still with good weather (in summer) 5.000 register in the night on m.s.n.m. temperatures of-20 ° C (-0,4th F).

In the top the common temperature is-30 ° C (-22nd F). But when the Aconcagua is visited by the bad weather and by the air masses of the South, in Square of Mules an approximate temperature of-18 is supported ° C (-0,4th F), whereas in the camps of height it is common to have-25 ° C (-13th F).

Current temperature and prognosis extended in Mendoza.

   

Plane

::::: Transportation :::::

             
Bus
 
Transport
 
Mule
 
Trekking
1
 
2
 
3
 
4
 

 

Photography

::::: Galleries :::::

  1. Galería de Imágenes MDA: Travesía a Plaza Argentina 2010
  2. Galería de imágenes seleccionadas por MDA - Argentina's Mountains
  3. Aconcagua.org
  4. Imágenes de Google
  5. Imágenes de Google: Plaza Argentina
  6. Imágenes de Bing
  7. Imágenes de Altavista
   

Video

::::: Videos :::::

Tormenta en el Aconcagua (2007)
Life and death on Aconcagua (2008)
Mt. Aconcagua... bad decisions
Atacando o Cume do Monte Aconcágua
Cemiterio de alpinistas do Aconcagua
Fracasso no Aconcagua
Condor Adventures (Aconcagua) *
Montaña Mìstica 6962 mts de Pasión *
Last Steps of Aconcagua
Aconcagua Speed Flying *** Download - HQ 26MB - Descent of Aconcagua South Face
Video Promocional Aconcagua 2005
Aconcagua 2008 Summit
Aconcagua Pared Sur Entrevista *

Cumbre del Aconcagua Expedición Agreste sur (Neuquen) *
Jesus Callejas 1er. Desafio al Aconcagua ***

Travesía a Plaza Argentina, febrero 2010 ***** MDA por Vacas a Plaza Argentina.

Cruzando el Rio Vacas, parte 1 (deshielo) Parque Provincial Aconcagua (Daniel Savorgnano, Aida Sandoval, Alejandrina Tapia).

Creo que es el mejor video de la cumbre vía Punta de Vacas, acá verán la que actualmente es la meta MDA 2011, el C3 Aconcagua Summit 2010 - 22,841 ft

   

Supervivencia

::::: Tips :::::

In mountaineering terms, Aconcagua is technically easier from the north face, through the "normal track" of the northwest, which is not necessary to use technical climbing. The effects of altitude are severe (atmospheric pressure is 40% of the existing sea level) and weather conditions can change abruptly (the famous "white wind" of Aconcagua). Not require the use of artificial oxygen.

In the "normal route" is up through high camps with their rest days. The most significant milestones of the road are: Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas), the light, Piedras Conway, Plaza Canada, Stone 5000, Cambio de Pendiente, Hawks Nest, Berlin, Piedras Blancas, Piedras Negras, Independence, Portezuelo of Winds, Grand Crossing, La Chute and Aconcagua Summit (in order of difficulty).

The second track, much riskier than the former, is the Polish Glacier. This approaches the mountain through the Vacas valley, ascends to the base of the Polish Glacier and across the normal route up the final climb to the summit.

The tracks from the crest south and southwest are the toughest, considering the South Wall as the most difficult. This is a very committed and climbing high difficulty in one of the largest walls of the world (3000 m of wall approx.)

Experience indicates that while the months "peaks" are colder, the weather is more stable. A correct calculation of the time, is to have planned several days of reserves to wait for the opportune time in cases of temporary. A "smoke-Cap", "Mushroom," or white wind on the summit of Aconcagua, a sign of temporary high, being advised not to continue to rise.

There is vegetation in the Himalayas up to 5,000 meters in the Central Andes only up to 3500-4000 meters.

Relative humidity is very low and the thickness of the layers of the atmosphere in this part of the globe, have characteristics that determine these effects. Not to mention that at the same altitude on Aconcagua there is less oxygen in the Himalayas and winds produce low pressure areas that intensify these effects.

It should also be noted that the base camps from which to begin the ascent, are more than 4,000 m Most of the hills of USA and Europe do not reach this height, so the American and European climbers are not used to these conditions and do not give importance to the warning signs.

For a European climber practically equivalent to begin the climb from the summit of Mont Blanc.

EQUIPMENT NEEDED

ENTRY PERMITS

The processing of permits for Aconcagua Provincial Park entrance is done personally in the building of the Directorate of Tourism of the City of Mendoza, located on Avenida San Martín 1143. Office hours are Monday through Friday from 8-18 pm. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 9 to 13.
The price varies depending on the duration of activity (short trek: 3 days, long trek: seven days, rising 21 days) and the date of entry:

Prospective NATIONAL 2010

High Season
(December 15 to January 31)
Upgrade $ 600
Trek over $ 130
Trek short $ 70

Mid Season
(1 to 14 December and 1 to 20 February)
Upgrade $ 400
Trek over $ 90
Trek short $ 60

Low Season
(15 to 30 November and February 21 to March 31)
Upgrade $ 200
Trek over $ 90
Trek short $ 60

Prospective Foreign 2010

High Season
(December 15 to January 31)
Upgrade $ 1,800
Trek over $ 400
Short Trek $ 210

Mid Season
(1 to 14 December and 1 to 20 February)
Upgrade $ 1200
Trek over $ 260
Short Trek $ 180

Low Season
(15 to 30 November and February 21 to March 31)
Upgrade $ 600
Trek over $ 260
Short Trek $ 180

Nota MDA: But perhaps some politician says it will do is lie that the garbage truck arrives at the summit ... therefore acordate down with your waste.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

DEGRADED long does it take?

One can of food ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 100.
Hard Plastic ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 400 years.
Aluminum ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 200-500 years.
Glass ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... undetermined.

An alkaline battery, 175,000 liters of water pollution.
A cigarette butt pollutes 75 liters of water.

Virgen de las Nieves:

On Wednesday January 6, 1981, the Association Mendocina Mountain Activities (AMAM) paid tribute to their patron saint. He was enthroned at the summit of Aconcagua an image of the Virgen de las Nieves. This was donated by Mr. Danilo Fernandez Bertollo (fertile fervent believer and admirer of the Virgin).

The statue, 28 centimeters high was jealously guarded in a safe and protected in a backpack ridge. The climbers, was headed by the Police Officer Don Ignacio Mendoza Edgardo Medina Cruzatt altar erected a wooden cross between one and two picks. Unfortunately the image and history disappeared after faded with time, but police and mountaineers always remember this milestone.

   

Shelter

::::: Mountain shelters :::::

Normal Route:

  1. 4000 meters-Shelter "Army of the Andes" - destroyed by avalanches.
  2. 4230 meters. Refugio Plaza de Mulas "(Section Explorers Baqueanos), sleeps 6 / 8 people. There is water on site. There is also a hotel / lodge.
  3. 5300 meters. Refugio "Antarctica Argentina", sleeps 3 people - was destroyed.
  4. 5700 meters. Refugio Plantamura "and" Freedom ", capacity 3 / 4 persons each.
  5. 5700 meters. Refugio "Berlin."
  6. 6,500 meters. Refugio "Independencia", capacity 3 / 4 people (shelter stable world's highest). Semi-destroyed.

    Polish Route (By point of Cows):
  1. M.s.n.m. 2800 Pampa de Lenas.
  2. M.s.n.m. 3200 Stone house. There is drinking water.
  3. M.s.n.m. 4200 Plaza Argentina. No water, unless a service is contracted.
   

Flora and Fauna

::::: Wild life :::::

Despite his harsh environmental conditions, Aconcagua presents a variety of plant and animal life adapted to the climate.

In the summer months the vegetation has a showy flower that surprises visitors with different forms and prevalence of the yellow color, which is short due to inclement weather. To shelter from the wind and cold and intense sunlight of summer, some plants look stunted and cushion-shaped clumps, as yareta, goat horn, where most volume is buried, and yellow wood, with heights that can reach heights up to 3m. In the area dominated by open grassland and as coirones Huecú.

Among the rocks and up to an altitude of 4300m perennial herbs can be found as the tail of armadillo and rosette. In streams and springs are concentrated plains and moist soils, locally known as the "Forest of the Andes Aggregates" for having a great biodiversity in vegetation cover can be seen rushes, sedges and various species of grasses.

The animals that inhabit the Aconcagua Park have different strategies to cope with the environment. Mammals have rounded and smooth, dense coat that harbors and protects allowing them to adapt to sudden temperature changes of this extreme environment. The guanacos, pumas and foxes have the ability to move to lower regions are favorable to them in times of snow. In the case of mountain mice and other sedentary species such as alligators, lizards and toads hibernate saves energy and moving only during the day and unable to travel long distances.

Among the reptiles, the Andean toad, endemic to this mountain range, is of particular interest as it indicates the purity of water. The avifauna is diverse, sighting examples of very small birds like the Andean hummingbird, and other like hawks larger kill me and the emblematic Andean condor. The most daring to human presence as comesebo, roadside, widow, and chingolos gauchito are commonly seen in the basement of the Park camp. The meadows, streams and rivers are populated by waterfowl like duck crest, the stream and the Plover headband.

   

Food

::::: Food :::::

The basis of the forces of climbers passed largely by good nutrition.

The recommended calorie source is divided mainly between carbohydrates (sugars), fat (animal and plant) and protein.

Food should be easily digestible, palatable, easy to carry, not too heavy, not too bulky and wide variety.

We eat at a leisurely pace, chew well and not in abundance, but enough.

   

Stadistics

::::: Statistics :::::

Report of the Government of Mendoza to End the Season 2001/2002.

According to official reports, the total number of entrants to the Aconcagua Provincial Park during the 2001/2002 season were as follows: Persons admitted to climbing to the summit:

3378 persons admitted for trekking to base camp, 1056.

A 87.86% were foreigners and 12.14% of Argentines.

United States was the country that brought more people for promotion, following then Germany and England third.

Ingreso histórico de visitantes (por temporada)
 
Nov.
Dic.
Ene.
Feb.
Mar.
Total
03/04
430
2036
2746
1567
215
6994
04/05
377
1711
2580
1478
344
6490
05/06
491
1984
2636
1596
583
7290
06/07
539
1996
2769
1536
473
7313
07/08
586
1998
2985
1560
529
7658
   

History

:::::First Summit :::::

The first ascent of which the news was made in 1897 by a British expedition led by Briton Edward Fitzgerald. The summit was reached by Mathias Zurbriggen of Switzerland on 14 January and two other expedition members a few days later.

The first Argentine to reach the summit was Nicholas Plantamura, belonging to the Argentine Army, the March 8, 1934, the first French woman was Adriana Bance, 7 March 1940, who ascended accompanied by members of the Club Andino de Mendoza.

You should also mencionarce that from 1942 the main woman mountaineer in the Andes was the Swiss Dorly Marmillod who with her husband, died frozen in the Alps in 1954. His career andinística (always with her husband), was impressive climbing in Chile, Venezuela, Colombia, Peru and Argentina.

The summary of his career in our mountains is as follows: in February 1948, Aconcagua, in later years, Tupungato, 6550 m, Sierra Bella, 5230 m (2nd ascent) Fingers, 4960 m (2nd ascent), Cerro Mexico, 5000 m, Aconcagua (1st ascent with Lt. southwestern edge. Ibañez and F. Grajales), Cerro Lopez, and Tronador Bariloche, 3370 meters.

That is why Dorly Marmillod is entitled to be regarded a leading mountaineers of the world.

On the first ascent of the South Wall was held on February 25, 1954 by the French Pierre Lesueuer, Adrien Dagory, Edmond Denis, Robert Paragot, Lucien Berardini and Guy Poulet. The head of the expedition was Rene Ferlet.

From December 24, 2010, the 3,000 meters in the south wall of the Aconcagua has a new route, solo for the U.S. Open Chad Kellog.
Climbing in 42 hours, was dubbed "The Medicine Buddha." He had arrived with his friend Tom Milne and reached the summit along the ridge west ... just to acclimate
.

   

Leyend

::::: Leyends :::::

INCA LEGEND OF BRIDGE

Inti, the sun was the god of the Inca Inca Empire and its direct descendant. His authority was greater than that of a king and that he was considered the son of Sun and its mission was to rule and protect its people.

Inca Once there was a very generous, loved his people wishing all a rich and sovereign rule. Equally worried about the problems of daily life to travel around their territory from one extreme to another, trying to conquer new lands. Continuing the tradition of their ancestors never invaded a territory by force. First invited people to join their domains, but instead offered to teach them to plant and they would lack ensured that no soil or food. Thus it was hardly necessary to struggle.

One day the Inca fell gravely ill. Neither the priests nor the sorcerers were able to discover how bad it was, the son of Inti increasingly worsened and all feared for his life. Until one afternoon, the runners who ran quickly from one post to another, transmitting the news from town to town, warned the servants of the Inca, in the south there was a remedy that could cure him. They immediately began preparations for the journey along the mountain range and when all was ready, set out from Cuzco, capital of the Empire, in search of this precious remedy.

One of the things I most proud of the Incas, were stone pathways extending throughout its territory. For they walked through valleys and mountains, and when night came, camped around, inns which stood on the side of the road. Inside the inn lay the Inca for strength.

Not discouraged at any time despite the hard and long journey, a hope stronger than all that, encouraged and encouraged to move forward. He loved his king and wished fervently to recover health quickly.

They continued the march for many days until finally they found the source of a river that ran parallel to the road and continued in that direction. The water came down in torrents raising clouds of fine drops to crash into the rocks and the turbulent flow noise broke the silence of the imposing mountain range. The pilgrims on their way up to a point where the river changed its course in a sharp bend east, closing the passage. Hence the flow was much deeper and made it impossible to stream crossing to the other side.

They stopped and camped determined to find a place where to pass. Thus they formed groups led by a guide and taking turns, while others roamed around the area rested trying to find the passage. Unfortunately they were not successful and the groups became increasingly discouraged from his expeditions, until I finally gave up.

Then they formed a council to decide what to do and after much discussion and exchange of ideas, came to the sad conclusion that they should return. Overwhelmed, they thought that their monarch exhausted by the trip could not resist the return and was probably never again see his beloved Cuzco.

Prepared to spend the night there, to start the next day return. They surrounded the Inca trying to be more together and united than ever, to give each other the courage and strength they needed to return and how to protect themselves from this great pain that was invading moment to moment.

Meanwhile Inti the Sun, which was to hide on the horizon, he saw what was happening. The feat that the Incas were able to make love for their monarch, did not escape the sight of God and wanted to reward the dedicated fervor of this group of subjects. Then consult with Mama Quilla, the moon, and the two decided to help immediately.

At dawn the next day, the Incas, between asleep and awake, they were frightened face, a bridge built across the road pointed them. The gods had built enough to stay. Full of joy started walking again with new hope.

They had far to go yet and the Inca grew more and more, not even opened my eyes to see their people as before, no words came out of his mouth and slept constantly. Forced to make many stops on the way because he tired easily, the march became slower and more painful, but not falter at any time.

Finally they came to the right place, at once the tasks were distributed, while some were looking for medicinal herbs, others built a large tent to house his monarch and install everything needed for healing.

It was in vain all the extraordinary effort they spent on the Inca soon began to improve visibly to the delight of all. Happy started back with songs and prayers of thanks to the gods. The messengers ran quickly in front of them carrying the good news. All the people waited anxiously and prepared the great festivals in his honor. The temples were shining, ready for ceremonies and rituals of thanksgiving.

The Inca fully entered the spare capital, the people greeted him warmly and led him to his home. Shortly after the son of Inti reigned in the Empire.

Since then the northwest of the province of Mendoza, where the river flows Las Cuevas, the same as interrupting the passage of pilgrims, stands the Inca Bridge linking the two sides and under his bow still go through the river torrents.

LEGEND ACONCAGUA

Aconcagua, for the primitive inhabitant was the master of all causes and biological secrets. They lived in the area a very ambitious race of giants. In an age where everyone was thirsty and triumphed sand and stone giants conceived the idea of robbing the old titan a grain of its most treasured resource: water.
Behind the god of the summits, the people of giants, climbed its slopes and released water into the plains. When the Aconcagua woke her feet shone in the rosy light of dawn, thousands of rivers of silver.
The giant, furious, he burst the whole of its water container which, with a fearful roar, collapsed inundating the valleys and plains.

Time passed and the streams were channeled. The land is fertilized but still keeps the Aconcagua and decides to avenge his anger by throwing periodically overflowing its slopes leading down to devastate crops and villages across the Rio de los Patos (in Huarpe "Potus").

   
 
... al Cielo

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::::: Information Sources :::::

es.wikipedia.org | www.montipedia.com | www.aconcaguatrek.com www.aconcaguaexpeditions.com | Aconcagua:Mendoza.gov.ar | Al Borde | AconcaguaSpirit | Montañismo.org | Sobre el Nivel del Mar (Equipo) | Los Puquios

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